KScorp

For that price, I think you'll be happy. Judging from the review Trakaill posted, you shouldn't have any problems with it. Nope. It doesn't matter if you downgrade your power rating, as long as your computer won't use that much power. Your computer should fall well within the 520W rating. You can't SLI or Crossfire with it, and the enormous graphics cards might be a bit out of its league. But it will handle your 5850 just fine, as that card will use a maximum of 151W. There is plenty of room for extra hard drives, disk drives, or anything else for that matter if you plan on getting them. (Just not an extra graphics card. )

Got out a week ago. As a senior with good grades, I was exempt from 3 of my finals. > (My AP Physics teacher forced us to take it no matter what. >.>)

Grabbed one. Installing it as I type. =3 Oh god I just noticed I have to download over 7GB of crap with their installer. Might not be able to play today. :O

A drop when? From your current PSU, not likely. If you upgrade to a high end GPU, possibly.

You have to boot using your new disk. Sometimes, your computer is already set to do that from the get go, regardless if you have an OS installed. Other times, you need to change something in your BIOS to make your computer boot from the disk. If you have to change BIOS, find the setting which changes boot order, or boot sequence. Something like that. Make it so your disk drive has a higher priority to boot than your hard drive. Save the settings, then boot up. (Make sure your memtest disk is in your drive while you boot.)

ORLY? Excuse me for not using "ampere". And Toxin, I believe that's a decent PSU, especially for that price. I think any change from generic to brand name is a upgrade in this case. And the single 480W rail is a large plus. I'm not too familiar with Antec though. Someone else may be able to make a better recommendation on that PSU.

Good, if it beeps that means your mobo should work fine. And the beep is a post error code, you might be able to figure out exactly what the problem is using it, since different errors get different codes. I'm suspecting it will point to RAM anyway.

Well, at least you figured out it's either the RAM or the mobo. x.x When you say it won't post, do you mean it gives an error, or simply doesn't do anything anymore?

We need a subsection in this forum for rage. And have a script clean it out every 10 seconds.

This happens to me on occasion as well, but I find it fixes itself. Does this happen every time you load CSS?

Did you try the normal "solutions" that people with CSS problems usually go through? Like deleting your .blob file in the Steam directory, or reinstalling CSS? Sorry I can't give any actual solutions, it's difficult to diagnose problems when they start for seemingly no reason. Can you give us any details about the crash? A system restore never hurts.

Use Audacity. Pretty useful, I use it to cut out the audio for my HLDJ Clips. ;D I don't know the exact specifics on how you would go about doing this, but it should be an easy task fixing your problem. (I'm guessing that your clip has stereo with one channel silent? You can just force it to be mono, or duplicate the side with audio onto the other side...)

Not all viruses are that devastating Harry. Many simply reside in only a few files, or screw up a few things here and there. There's only 1 virus I experienced which screwed things up to the point of making me reformat the entire computer, out of the tens that I noticed causing a problem. (Hundreds which didn't manage to make it past the automatic anti-virus.) This virus, as cj18 stated, isn't ruining his computing experience. A good anti-virus should be able to remove it without problem. I would, however, avoid sending sensitive information until you're sure it's removed.

I believe it's a problem with your RAM as well. (I had these random crashes at one point with an older computer.) Both errors you got are RAM related. You should probably test your RAM. Memtest86 works very well for this purpose. If you have less than 4GB of RAM, download version 3.5. Otherwise, download 3.4. Just click on the Free Downloads tab and download the Windows ISO, and burn that to a disk using some sort of image burning software like ImgBurn. Boot up your computer with that disk, and run the test. This test can take a LONG TIME, since it has to write various patterns to every single address in memory. Make sure you aren't going to need your computer any time soon. Or run it overnight if you have a lot of RAM. If you're lucky, the solution might simply be removing your memory sticks and putting them back in. This is usually for older computers, where there might be a loose connection or something like that. If you aren't so lucky, you'll need to buy new RAM. (You only need to replace the bad stick, the memory testing software should clarify which one this is.)

You have to find out exactly what it is. Get your virus scanner running in safe mode as per Jager's suggestion, and hopefully your anti-virus should be able to take care of it there. Otherwise, tell us what your virus scanner reports (eg. what virus you have). If you do a google search on it, you should be able to find other ways of removing it if your anti-virus can't handle it (which happens on occasion).

He said it worked fine before. Instructions to turning off Aero Desktop.

PowerNos, do you have some detector for these kinds of things?

This. As it turns out, the wattage on the PSU isn't the whole truth. Each rail in the PSU has it's own specific Amperage limit, and it may turn out that while the PSU advertises it can handle 400W, it may not be able to supply the power your separate components' need, such as the video card, because that specific rail can't handle the power demands of the GPU. This is especially true for the very high end graphics cards that draw over 200W or 250W on a single rail, which would require an amperage rating of at least 22A on their 12V rail. When you go with higher wattage PSUs, they often come with a higher amperage rating on their rails as well, alleviating that problem. This can often be a tricky problem, since two even lower rated PSUs may be superior to higher rated ones. See this wikipedia paragraph on the power rating of PSUs.

By the sound of it, it's unrelated to Steam since it's crashing at what seems to be random points. (Unless it was initially caused by Steam...) Anyway, to find your error code, first you need to get your computer to stop automatically restarting on an error. Go to your Control Panel, find your System settings, and when you end up with the "System Properties" window click on the "Advanced" tab. (On Win7, click "Advanced system settings" when in the System part of your Control Panel.) Now, under "Startup and Recovery", click the "Settings..." button. Now, under the "System failure" section, uncheck "Automatically restart". Now, whenever you get the BSOD, it should stay up. Now, to try and diagnose your problem, right now it seems to be happening randomly. First off, you need to try and run your virus scan while in Safe Mode. While booting, hit F8 to get to startup settings, and select "Safe mode". Run your virus scan in that mode, and see if any positives come up or if you simply BSOD again. Also, did you update any drivers recently, or did windows update run right before this started happening?

Windows 7 allows for v64 (64-bit) applications. This doesn't mean ONLY x64 applications. It is completely backwards compatible with x86 (32-bit) applications. (However, x64 applications are not backwards compatible with x86 systems.) Anyway, back to RAM, it depends on what you want to use your computer for. For games, 3GB should be plenty. However, 3GB will NOT be enough for multimedia editing, such as using Photoshop or After Effects. Final note, you can always upgrade to 6GB if 3GB doesn't cut it.

By the looks of it, you won't sell it for much if it has the specs tink linked. The hard drives and processor are the only things I see in there which can be worth any money at all. Processor, maybe $15. Hard drives (all of them), possibly another $50 depending on their exact make. As a rough guess, I's say it's worth about $75. How much you'll be able to sell it for, though, I have no clue. There's no demand for these anymore. That's probably why they were being given away for free.

I played around with After Effects. Takes a lot of time to learn something IMO. >.> Edit: Lol double, I wish rebooting would fix trial versions. Then there would be no need for tpb. ;_;

I might be able to fill the part of getting AVIs from demos. I'll try it out to see if I can get decent quality ones.

The HP Pavilion Elite has wireless N, a Blu-Ray drive, a card reader, and 8GB ram. The Cyberpower has a better video card and 4GB ram. Since both 4GB and 8GB of ram should suit your purposes fine, it's only a matter if you care for the best graphics performance given by the Cyberpower PC, or the usability of the HP PC. I should add that both of them should be able to play any game you throw at them. The Cyberpower will just do it a bit better. So, take your pick. If you have no need for the wireless internet, Blu-Ray drive, and card reader, I'd go with the Cyberpower.

Another good gaming PC. Should be everything you want. (Even comes with blu-ray drive) But I have to advise you against buying monitors from Newegg. They have a shit return policy on dead pixels. Almost all online retailers do. I suggest going to a brick-and-mortar store to get your monitor. (I got my Acer 24" at CompUSA, couldn't be happier.)